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Afshin Molavi, born in Iran, but brought up in America, and fluent in Farsi, travelled his homeland for over a year, meeting with students of the right and left, bazaar merchants, Islamic clerics, pro-democracy writers and young people fascinated by anything Western. His journey took the form of a series of pilgrimages out of the capital, Tehran, to the shrines and tombs of a variety of figures who played an important part in Iran's ancient history.